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Madrid was initially inhabited by the Iberians, but the region
was later visited by the Carthaginians, followed by the Romans,
two peoples who considered wine a basic element of their diet.
Either of these primitive peoples could have been responsible
for introducing the wine-growing custom in Spain, if it did not
already exist in the territory at the time, although it seems
most likely that Rome was indeed responsible.
Important roads passed through the Madrid of the Roman Hispania
and it was to be expected that such a wine-growing people like
the Romans would take advantage of the excellent conditions existing
in these lands to elaborate their wines. Sadly, there are no vestiges
or traces of this early wine-growing tradition, for they were
lost following the invasion of the Barbarians. The Vandals devastated
the region and impoverished the land, which led to a noteworthy
decline in the demography. However, it seems that the vineyards
which managed to survive were not affected, in the end, by the
subsequent Arab invasion, despite the fact that the Koran expressly
prohibits imbibing in alcoholic beverages. It seems that in Moslem
Spain, the wine growing industry actually flourished due to the
healthy drinking habits of the Hispanic Moslems, who, in this
case, decided not to heed this particular dictate of the Koran.
The territory of Madrid was conquered once again by Alfonso VI,
who seized Magerit (Madrid) in 1083. The repopulation was carried
out by the people of Castilla la Vieja, mainly those from Segovia,
who arrived at these new lands under contract to plant grapevines
or cereals for the feudal lords or for the abbots of the monasteries.
It was during the 13th and 14th centuries, when the wine production
in Madrid took on even greater importance. In the 15th century,
the Madrid wines had attained an aura of prestige, which was reflected
in many literary references, such as those of the "Arcipreste
de Hita", and these fine wines were even exported to other cities.
In 1481, the Madrid Council established its conditions for the
sale of its production and in a letter sent to the dignitaries
of Burgos, it was decided that "those who come from afar for wine,
should come loaded with fish, and if they do not bring fish with
them, they will not take away the wine".
In the so-called "Siglo de Oro" (Century of Gold - between the
16th and 17th centuries), Madrid was chosen as the capital of
the Spanish kingdom and this led to a noteworthy increase in the
demand for its wine. Despite the fact that Felipe II, during the
first years of his reign, consumed wine from the Rhine, as it
was elaborated expressly for the monarch, the local population
drank the much praised wines of their region.
After three hundred years of economic growth, the 17th century
experienced a general impoverishment of the Madrid Community,
bringing with it hunger, plagues and an over-all decline in the
demography, which would last until the 20th century. Nevertheless,
the raising of the grapevines continued to flourish and the Madrid
wines were able to maintain their prestige, although we cannot
ignore the fact that the depression did leave its mark.
In 1914, phylloxera was detected for the first time in the Madrid
area, which would end up destroying practically all of the region's
vineyards. The reconstruction process was slow but steady, while
the city of Madrid took on greater and greater importance as a
market for quality wines. After several difficult years due to
autarchic policies which subsidised the abandoning of the grapevines,
it was in the decade of the fifties when recovery of the vineyards
was initiated once again. In 1984, the Specific Denomination of
Origin "Vinos de Madrid" was recognised and it was officially
approved in 1990. Fortunately, at present, on a day to day basis,
both the vineyards as well as the wineries of Madrid are recovering
a great deal of the prestige they so justly enjoyed in the past.
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Cuesta
de la Vega. Palacio de Oriente |
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Puente
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